Hawke Sidewheel Project – Part 2   7 comments

Greetings All,

Well, I finished the side-wheel for my Hawke Sidewinder 6-24×56. The sidewheel is a combination of two ideas I found on a forum. One idea – which I completed – was to use a toilet flange on the existing Hawke 100mm sidewheel(Forum Post Link). I followed the directions and made it work. I created all my range markings and all worked well. I noticed that I was using just under half of the wheel (7″ in diameter). I found a post by Paul Bishop who created a side-wheel from a cutting board for his scope (Homemade+sidewheel+and+scope+knob). I decided I should be able to make a sidewheel that would be half the circumference.

In part 1 I showed how I started out with the cutting board and drew out what I wanted to do. I did not want to buy a bunch of cutting boards so I end up spending a lot of time contemplating and cogitating over how I was going to accomplish this.

So where is where we left off…

Before cutting out the outside of the board, I determined cutting the inside areas first would be easier. I used my Dremel and a few drill bits to cut out the holes.

 

There are three different size holes (1 1/4″,Β  3/4″,Β  and 1/2″), so I just used the corresponding bit and drilled the holes. Easy. For the Hawke rubber insert, I measured and found I needed to drill out 1/8″ inch and down 1/4″ so the insert would fit flush but not fall out the back. I did so with the Dremel. I also cut out two notches so it would slip over the knob.

Hawke Insert shown flush with board.

 

Next, I cut out the outside of the wheel with a jig-saw. In hind-sight, I found a Dremel cutting bit that would have worked better. Smoother cuts probably, but too late now.

With the wheel cut out, I started sanding all the edges. Once that was complete, I drilled and tapped four holes for set screws. These would be used to tighten down the rubber insert to the scope knob.

 

With the holes tapped, I needed something on the front to hold the insert in. At Lowes I found a large rubber washer that did the trick. I got some stainless screws to hold the washer and all seemed to be working so far.

When I went to do a test fit, it fit better backwards – so I left it at that. It has a cleaner look anyways.

Test Fit

 

Now that all seemed to be working, it was time for some paint. I bought some plastic paint from Lowes and took the wheel outside for some spraying. Lowes only had gloss black, but I would have preferred flat black. After two coats of paint, here is the result.

Here are some pics of the set screws.

And finally, some pictures with the sidewheel on the scope. You can see the toliet flange in the picture for comparison.

A closer picture of the yardage markings. You can see it is a bit wider than the previous setup.

All in all, the cost for the cutting board, screws, etc. was close to $20. Now granted, this is not as nice as a CNC machine sidewheel – but it is a lot cheaper. If I was going to do it again (I may later down the road), I would buy black plastic from here. That would cut out the cost and hassle of painting.

That wraps up another edition of front porch workshop. Until next time….

Blessings,
Jeff

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Posted February 23, 2011 by avv604 in Airguns, How-To

7 responses to “Hawke Sidewheel Project – Part 2

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  1. Jeff great going, You Da Man !!!!
    Very nice job. Is there anything you can’t do.
    Tony Bennardo

  2. I have been trying to figure out how to make a sidewheel for my Hawke 6X24X50 Eclipse and can’t justify the price of a custom aluminum one at present. I would like to try to make one similar to yours and have a few questions. I can see how to drill and tap the screws from outside the wheel but can’t figure out how to drill and tap the screw shown on the inside. Also, does this rubber washer fit on the inside next to the scope and is it a size smaller than the hole in the wheel hole for friction? Any help appreciated.

    • Greetings Billy,
      Let me see if I can try to answer your questions.
      “…but can’t figure out how to drill and tap the screw shown on the inside.” Well, the way I did it was just did the best I could. You can see in one of pictures above where I am tapping one from the outside. They way I did the inside tap, directly across from that one, was to drill the initial hole at an angle.

      “… does this rubber washer fit on the inside next to the scope” Originally it was going to face out but the fit was better with it facing in.

      “…is it a size smaller than the hole in the wheel hole for friction?” No, the only reason the washer is there is to hold in the rubber friction ring in from the Hawke Sidewinder. It is the rubber piece from the inside of the existing sidewheel.

      Hope this helps. If not, let me know and I will try again. πŸ™‚

  3. Thanks, Anonymous. Maybe I will be able to get the inside screw done good enough to hold. Since I am starting from scratch, and don’t have any type add on side wheel, I don’t have a Hawke rubber insert. I am hoping I can cut the hole in my wheel and from a template, make grooves in it to fit over the scope knob when it slides on or cut something to fit in between the wheel hole and the scope knob so that the screws won’t mess up the knob on the scope. Also, when installed does the wheel slide on to where the scope knob is slightly outside the wheel? In your photos where you show the toilet flange wheel along with the new wheel installed, it looks like the knob is sticking out past the edge of the wheel. Sorry about being such a doofus on this but I am trying to see if this is something that I can do since I don’t have the Hawke rubber insert. This old, old man appreciates your help.

    • Greeting Billy,

      Sorry, I forgot to put my name in the last post – I am the anonymous. πŸ™‚
      Don’t feel like you are being a doofus. If you don’t know, you don’t know – and you will stay without the knowledge until you ask. πŸ™‚

      I have that same scope on my .243. To make a side wheel for it, the easiest thing to do would be:
      1. Find something that can drill a hole all the way thru that is about the same size as the side knob.
      2. Cut out the sidewheel in the shape you want. Cut the hole in the middle with the previously mentioned.
      3. Wrap electrical tape or something else around the sidewheel knob to protect it from the set screws.
      4. Drill and tap all your screws going into the middle of the hole. You will not need the rubber gasket like above, so all of those materials are not needed.
      5. Once your wheel is like you want, and set screws are in, then test fit the wheel. You may have to add or remove tape to get the fit nice and snug. I always preferred more tape so I could tighten down the set screws more.
      6. Sand, primer, and paint the sidewheel. Fit onto the sideknob,
      7. Tighten down the set screws, and make sure the wheel remains straight. You can do this by moving the wheel back and forth and adjusting one or two screws accordingly.

      Let me know if this helps. If not, email me – I will do what I can. πŸ™‚
      avv604@gmail.com

      Blessings,
      Jeff A.

  4. Hello Jeff,

    I thought that it would be easier for me to do it like you have suggested. I am looking for the plastic cutting board to use to cut it out. I have some inner tube I though that I might use next to the side wheel knob or use electrical tape, whichever seems to fit the best. I do plan to cut the hole a little larger than the knob so that I can add something to fill in to protect the knob. Someone said there were some black cutting boards at Walmart and if that is correct, I will get black so that I don’t have to paint the wheel. If after sanding, it doesn’t look right I can always paint it.

    With the info you furnished I believe that I can get the job done. Thanks again for your help. After I get back from vacation and finish the project, I will try to e-mail you a photo and let you see if it looks ok.

    Billy

    • Greetings Billy,

      That will be great. I would love to see it. I am glad to help out, anytime. I look forward to seeing the pictures!

      Jeff

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