Marauder Project – Lightening the trigger   32 comments

Greetings All,

I have enjoyed having both the .22 and .177 Marauder. However, there has been one item that has bugged me. I would like to get the trigger lighter, but how? Well, I talked with my buddy John today (thanks John!) and he told me what he did. I changed his method just a bit so that one can go back to stock with minimal effort.

To begin,the parts list from Crosman is needed ( Click here ). I will reference the names they have designated.

The part I will modify is the torsion spring link (on page 6, 6U). This should take about 15 minutes and you have a very light and crisp trigger. To begin this modification, you will need some tools. Here is a picture of the minor tools you will need.

Remove the action out of the stock and remove the trigger casing cover (6B). I took the small flat-head screw driver and gently pried the cover off. The last little bit before the cover comes off I just gently wiggled the plate back and forth – the cover is off.

Take your needle-nose pliers and remove the spring… like so.

With the torsion spring link (6U) removed, all that is needed is to flatten out the bend (I used two needle-nose pliers to do this). This spring is what adds a great amount of tension to the trigger.

Here is the spring with the bend.

Here is the bend removed.

The trigger link spring (6L) is still putting tension on the trigger link (6E), so this part (the torsion spring link) is not really needed (as I am told).

Now, replace the spring and it now acts as a spacer. The trigger cover holds the torsion spring (now spacer) in place with no movement at all.

If you would like to go back to the previous setup, simply (and gently) put the bend back in the torsion spring.

This is also a good time to tune the trigger. You can very easily see how stage one and two are working. πŸ™‚
That is it! I performed this modification on both of my Marauders. Now they have very nice light and crisp trigger with no added cost.

If there are any questions or I did not word something correctly, please just let me know.
If this helped out any, please comment and let me know. πŸ™‚

Until next time,
In Him,

Posted April 30, 2010 by avv604 in Marauder

Tagged with , , , ,

32 responses to “Marauder Project – Lightening the trigger

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  1. Sweet! Thanks Jeff! Do you have a trigger pull guage, or can you hazard a guess as to the new pull weight? I don’t have a Marauder, but supposedly, factory pull weight is somewhere around 1.5 – 2 lbs… does this sound correct?

    – Orin

    • Greetings Orin,

      I don’t have a trigger gauge, but if I had to guess I would say close to 6-8 oz. It is now very light! I like it a lot.

  2. Thank you for giving this a try (someone needed to) and sharing complete with pictures for we who have a hard time visualizeing abstract ideas.


  3. Hi Jeff,
    I just got my .25 Marauder a few weeks ago and I love it!!! I am wondering where I get the diagram that you get your part numbers from? Instead of bending the spring, couldn’t we replace it with a spacer of some description?
    Thank you, V/R, Steve

    • Greetings Steve,

      You are absolutely correct! You can replace the spring with a spacer. In fact that is what JohnB did. However, the spacer costs about $1.70 and the shipping is much greater than that. But you are right and I believe that was the original design? I am not sure but that would make the most sense. πŸ™‚

      For the part number, early in my post I give a link. I will make it more visible. πŸ™‚


    • Steve,

      I updated the post. If you look at the beginning of the post, there is now a “Click here” for the PDF of parts list.

      Hope that helps. πŸ™‚


  4. Excellent! Just too cool, Thanks!!!

  5. Thanks for the post. . . and the link to the parts list. Now I can order a stock to modify, and still have the original unmolested to use while I tinker.

  6. If you unscrewed that front screw to lighten the trigger pull, and then go and unbend the trigger link spring, as shown above, then there will be nothing to reset the trigger. You won’t be able to cock the rifle without pushing the trigger forward manually.

    Don’t ask how I figured that one out. 😎

    • Yepper, I found that out as well. The front spring actually is what is designed to put tension on the hammer. The spring I modded was put there because of legal reasons (so I am told). πŸ™‚


  7. I’m now satisfied that I’ve tuned the trigger as light as I can get, with a distinct and crisp second stage. . . and spring-powered reset. πŸ˜€

    I pulled out the Lyman digital trigger gauge. First stage is right around 3 ounces, and the second-stage trips at 3.5-3.7 ounces.

    That’s within a few percent of what Ray of the A-Team (ateamray on the forums) reported, though I didn’t expect to be able to do that without polishing, or handmade springs, or something. All I did was follow the instructions that avv604 provided above, set the return spring screw to just barely reset the trigger + 1/6 of a turn clockwise (otherwise, it’s hard to notice the 2nd stage), and turn the 2nd stage screw a little bit to dial out some of the creep.

    My Jewell trigger (Remington 40X) breaks at about 3 ounces and runs about $240 for one with a safety. The KID trigger for 10/22 is sort of similar to the Marauder trigger, runs $290, and can’t really be adjusted below 6 ounces. You can get a whole Marauder rifle for $400, and that’s a bargain.

    • Suburban,

      Awesome! I am glad to hear of your outstanding results. Once I finish the next project, I will post it. What I am trying to do now is lock my settings in place. I plan to make a video along with pictures of how to do it. And, of course, make it reversible.

      I agree. For what you get, the Marauder is a bargain.

  8. Did you have to de-gas your Marauders before doing this trigger adjustment?

  9. I’m trying to do the trigger lighting now. I can’t get what appears to be 4 screws holding the cover on to loosen. How did you get them loose?

    • Greetings Eddie,

      My apologies for not replying sooner. I took a flat head screw driver and gently, gently worked around the edges.


  10. Thanks jeff for the reply. Could you explain in a little more detail? The screws appear to be a allen type ,but I could not get it to turn without stripping the screw. I stopped after trying just one.

  11. Hey, great tutorial!
    I did tweak to my Mrod .22 and OOOOOOOOOOOOOOH YES, so much better!
    It was not bad, but this is a match trigger now! πŸ™‚

    Thank you!

    • Kazzz,

      I am overjoyed that my little tutorial has helped. I am happy to help. Have fun with your M-rod. I know I have been. πŸ™‚


  12. Jeff – Finally got those screws loose. Its was almost like they used lock-tite. Plus, using the right size allen wrench helped.

  13. Thanks! I did mine just now. It only took 10 minutes to fix this trigger. By the way, Will i encounter problems in the future with this set-up? I mean, there is a reason why Crosman put the lawyer spring there.

    • I am glad it worked out for you. Regarding the reason for the spring – I have no good idea other than to evade lawsuits. There are individuals who are less than careless in their handling of an air rifle. However, I cannot be certain about the reason other than speculation.

      Thanks for you comment!


  14. Pingback: Anonymous

  15. Because of the legal reasons maybe this is why they call it the “lawyer spring”!

  16. Great Guide, follow it and easily finish my Mrod .25.

  17. Gracias

  18. Iv’e had this in my bookmarks for some time and just got around to doing the mod. So I had a double blessing today, the Mod and finding out this site is hosted by believers. Smiling a lot right now. Blessing!

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